North Leeds Plumbing & Heating – Home Improvement and DIY Advice

Brackets can be secured directly to walls using a combination of screw and raw plug.  A hole of appropriate size is drilled into the wall and then the raw plug is inserted.  Securing screws pass through the bracket holes and into the raw plug.  The method used to make this a strong connection between bracket and wall will depend on the material use to render the internal wall. 

Frequently internal walls are constructed of plastered masonry, stud partitioning or plasterboard dry lined onto masonry.  The screws that are used to hold brackets (and the weight they support) must be securely embedded in material that is capable of supporting them.  Before a shelf can be mounted on an internal wall the optimum location for holding screws must be determined.

To secure a bracket to plastered masonry select a screw and raw plug of the correct type and of sufficient length to penetrate the masonry to a good depth.  Avoid embedding screws into the mortar as this is the weakest part.

Stud partitioning is built on a wooden framework with vertical timbers located every 14-25 inches.  Screws need to be embedded in the timber rather than the plasterboard component.  Finding the vertical timbers can be done by simple tapping; wood resounds differently to plasterboard.  Alternatively, a straight line of small holes at the height of the shelf can be drilled until one timber is located.  From there the location of the next timber can be estimated and another small line of holes drilled to find the best spot.  A spirit level should be used to ensure that the holes are at the same height.

When drilling into masonry of uneven density, or when mounting on plasterboard dry lined onto masonry, problems may occur with lining up of holes and bowing of the plaster surface.  In this event a small rectangle of plaster can be removed and replaced with a wooden block which is securely mounted directly onto the masonry.  Bracket securing screws are then screwed into the wooden block.

Executed correctly these bracket fixtures will continue to support and remain in place for many years.

Choosing and furnishing a bathroom used to be a straightforward affair, with a limited range of basic bathroom suites and bathroom furniture to make a choice from.  Now, even a simple item like a sink can be found in a variety of forms and at a number of prices, as bathrooms become ever-more stylish spaces in the modern home.  Having access to so many choices is also easier than ever before, since it is now possible to buy all your bathroom furniture at the click of a button online.  But many people still prefer to select their purchases in a high street store or bathroom showroom where they can see and feel the quality of their bathroom suite items.

Since many modern homes now contain at least one bathroom as well as a separate shower room or cloakroom, there is more demand for sinks than ever before.  Families in particular like the comfort of knowing there will always be an easily accessible space for children or visitors to wash their hands.  Designs range from a small corner sink to a pedestal sink or countertop sink, and the materials are as varied as the styles.  Choose from classic ceramic to glass, resin and even stone to make an ultimate style statement.  Also popular are twin, or double, sinks that enable more than one person to brush their teeth or wash their hands at the same time, thus negating family arguments and promoting a more harmonious way of living.

Deciding to fit blinds onto the windows in your home is only the first step in the process.  Once you have decided that blinds are the way you want to go, you will need to decide whether you should buy readymade blinds or made to measure blinds, and whether you should have them professionally fitted or try to fit them yourself. 

Readymade or Made to Measure Blinds

Readymade blinds are generally less expensive than made to measure blinds, and it is possible to buy readymade blinds and then cut them to size yourself.  However, this will require some DIY knowledge on your part in order to get a professional look. 

Alternatively, you can buy made to measure blinds.  Although these are more expensive than readymade blinds, they are usually still quite affordable.  The major advantage of buying made to measure blinds is that are usually of a higher quality than readymade blinds, and are available in a much larger variety of styles, colours and textures.  Additionally, as a result of being custom made to the measurements you provide, they will fit perfectly. 

Professional or DIY Blind Fitting

Once you have your blinds, you will have to decide whether you should fit them yourself, or pay a professional to fit them for you.  Fitting the blinds yourself is sure to save you money; however, some blind styles are far easier to fit than others.  Roller blinds are extremely easy to fit, for example, and require only minimal DIY skills.

On the other hand, if you have chosen vertical blinds or venetian blinds for your windows, it may be worth paying a professional to fit the blinds for you if you do not have a great deal of DIY experience.  If your window is not a standard size, it may also be worth consulting an expert.  Although you will have to pay for the service of having your blinds fitted for you, you will be guaranteed a professional finish.

Most of the plaster used on the interior walls of houses is made of a type of lightweight gypsum.  Renders, which are cement-based plasters, are generally used for finishing off exterior walls but are often also used for renovation work inside where there is a damp problem.

The usual type of lightweight gypsum is applied in two coats; an undercoat about 10 mm thick applied in two layers, and a finish coat about 3 mm thick applied in one layer.  If you are working on a particularly absorbent surface you can use high-suction background (HSB) plaster for the undercoat, and there are other types of undercoat plaster designed for various types of underlying surfaces.  There are, in addition, other types of finish plaster which can create different effects.

Professional plasters are generally difficult to apply, come in unwieldy bags and set quickly.  They can only be applied in thin layers and can easily be dragged off when applying them.  DIY plasters come in two grades and avoid these problems.  Repair and finish DIY plasters are available ready-mixed, and sometimes in powder form to be mixed with water.

Repair plaster is one-coat and easier to apply than undercoat plaster.  It is mainly used for filling holes.  Finish plaster is also called plaster skim, and is used to finish over repair plaster, and also for smoothing over rough surfaces in general.

All types of plaster are applied using a plasterer’s trowel, after being carried to the surface with a hawk, which is a square, flat board with a small handle.

Many people want underfloor heating in their homes, but do not want to go through the cost and hassle of hiring a professional to install it.  That is where an underfloor heating kit comes in.
 
An underfloor heating kit can come in one of two varieties: loose wire or mat.  A loose wire kit is a little more difficult to install than a mat kit.  This kind of underfloor heating kit should only be used by those who have a room that is an unusual shape and needs a highly customised underfloor heating system to be installed.
 
Mat underfloor heating kits are considerably easier to install and fit most rooms.  The average kitchen, bathroom and living room can all be fitted with a mat underfloor heating kit.  That is because these rooms are commonly square or rectangle shaped.
 
Underfloor heating mat kits are extremely simple to use.  The kits come with mats that need to be placed under the floor to provide heat.  These mats simply need to be rolled out.  The required wiring is already in place and does not need to be shaped or altered at all.  Installation is as simple as rolling out the mats and setting them in place under the floor.
 
The mat kits are designed for regular rooms, but that does not mean they cannot be customised at all.  Using the mats, it is possible to cover only part of a room, or only the sections of a room that need to be covered.  The mats are a set size, but the homeowner can use as many or as few as they feel is necessary to heat the room.

What could be nicer than stepping out into your garden after a hard day at the office and walking across the grass into your home?  Increasing numbers of us are working from home quite regularly and changing working patterns means the trend is growing.  A garden office creates a distinction between home and work that can be difficult to find if you are working from a spare room or in a converted loft.  New forms of insulation mean a garden room can be used all year round, keeping you in perennial comfort.  Depending on what you are willing to pay, electricity and telephone lines can be installed to ensure maximum productivity.  Prices vary enormously, depending on its purpose and building materials, but we recommend seeking planning permission from your local authority before construction.

Often built with timber cladding and glass doors, a garden office can be a stylish as well as a functional addition to an outdoor space.  Indeed, one of the main attractions of a garden office is its versatility.  It can be used as a private sanctuary from the rest of the house, a place to escape in the garden.  It can also be designed to blend in with its surroundings, making the most of an outdoor space that is often under-used in the winter months.  Garden rooms can also add value to your home, making it a financially practical option too.

When opting for new blinds you must first consider what types of blinds are best for you.  Think carefully about where the blind is to be hung and what its function will be.  Do you want a blind that adds shade and privacy, or is it to be used as a design statement?

Whatever the function of the blind, Venetian blinds or, as they are sometimes known, ‘aluminium blinds’ are a timeless classic and remain an ever-popular choice for homes and offices.  Made up of a series of horizontal slats, they can fit flush to any uPVC window and are therefore quick and easy to fit without the need to drill.

Capable of tilting to 180 degrees, the Venetian blind can provide privacy and shade to any window.  Let a little light in, or a lot – it’s up to you.

Venetian blinds come in a wide variety of colours. If you opt for a neutral colour, the Venetian blind will fade unobtrusively into the background. If you feel like making a bold statement, choose a vivid colour and note how the blind completes the room.

The continuing popularity of the Venetian blind can be put down to its simple lines, unobtrusive lift cord and the ability to keep it clean with a regular wipe down.  The easy to clean nature of Venetian blinds means they are also ideal for kitchen and bathroom use.

Whatever the material you choose, a set of Venetian blinds can complement any room.

Solid wood floors are timeless and add an air of elegance to any room. Though they can lose their appearance over time, it is easy to restore them to their former glory.

First, prepare the floor for restoration by moving all furniture out of the room and then thoroughly clean the floor, including vacuuming the boards and removing any dirt from skirting boards. Use a lint-free cloth and white spirits to clean the floorboards; you may also take a wire brush and run it in the direction of the grain to emphasis it. Next, use a floor sander to reduce the floorboards back to the original surface. There are a number of finishes that you can then apply to the boards, from stains to varnishes, in addition to paints and liming. 

When applying wood varnish, use a base coat that contains a mix of 10% white spirits. This will act as a sealer and protect the boards. Start in a corner opposite the door and work towards it, applying the varnish along the line of the grain to enhance its appearance. Before starting, ensure that you have a selection of brushes, as you will have to negotiate such areas as fireplaces, wall edges and doorways. Once dry, apply a second coat. Varnish should be applied to the boards, again in line with the grain; bear in mind that around three coats are required to achieve maximum effect.

As an alternative, you may wish to try floor paint, which is readily available at any DIY store. Finally, liming can create a distressed look to flooring; the liming paste is applied at the preparation stage.

If you live in an older home, you have undoubtedly met with a stuck window.  The reasons can vary.  Sometimes the windows swell shut because of humidity.  Most often however it is because the previous owners painted them shut. 

In order to open the window, the paint seal that has been created around the window frame needs to be broken.  Take a putty knife or paint scraper and push its blade in the seam between the window sash and frame.  Use a hammer to carefully tap the putty knife or paint scraper blade into the seam and through the paint.  Do this all along the entire seam of the window.  You may have to repeat this process on the outside as well, if it too has been painted. 

Make sure the window is unlocked and give it a try.  It will most likely require a rather strong push upwards.  If it still will not open, inspect the tracks above the window frame.  It may also be clogged up with layers of paint.  You will need to scrape this paint out.  Use a narrow sandpaper block to smooth out these tracks and then oil them will a silicone lubricant spray. 

If you still have no success, use a hammer to carefully knock a block of wood against the lower sash and push the sash back away from the frame.  Repeat this completely around the window sash and try to open the window again.  Again, oils the track with silicone lubricant spray. 

Assuming you have decided where to start and depending on the type of paper being used; plain or patterned, you need to start measuring the lengths of paper required.  These are called drops and you should cut the required number required to reach your first corner.

If you have chosen plain paper, what is called free match paper, measuring the length is easy.  You simply measure the drop and add 10cm for trimming at both ends, roughly 5cm at each end.  Patterned and other types of paper are likely to require longer lengths.  The manufacturer’s instructions on the roll should indicate how much drop and excess is necessary.

Once you have decided the number of drops, simply lay the paper on the pasting table and cut with decorating scissors.  You might want to either fold the paper or score it along a ruler before cutting, which will ensure you avoid tears and jagged ends.  It is also important to note that, for patterned paper, each drop should match.  Some drops will therefore be longer than others.

There is a wide range of papers on the market today, including plain and self pasted.  If you are using a self pasted paper it will normally have a backing, which is peeled off.  If you have chosen paper that requires pasting, it takes about 15 – 20 minutes, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions, before the paste to be ready to use after mixing.  It is therefore advisable to prepare it before hanging the paper.  Also, when applying the paste, you should ensure that you cover the whole of the paper, leaving only the extreme ends unpasted; otherwise you will have sticky fingers.

Finally, line up the first drop next to the plumb line and begin applying the paper to the wall.