Cleaning them can be a quicker route than re-grouting to get the grout looking good again, though it can be labour intensive: scrubbing them with a hard tooth brush with some bleach on the bristles often works, but is hard work.  For relatively small areas, a grout pen – literally a pen you use to colour over the grout – can be effective.  Whilst for bigger areas of damage, a steam cleaner with a fine nozzle may be the answer.

If cleaning doesn’t work, or the area has lost large pieces of grout, then re-grouting may be your only option.  Firstly, you need to scrape out the old grout, using something like a grout rake or scraper.  Make sure you get out at least 2mm of the old grout, otherwise the new grout may not attach and seal properly.  Vacuum clean over the tiles afterwards in order to remove all of the little bits of grout that remain.

Then apply the grout itself.  Grout can be bought ready mixed in tubs, or you can get a powder to mix with water.  Use a rubber float tool to force the grout right down into the gaps between the tiles.  Don’t worry about getting grout on the tiles, just use a damp cloth to wipe it up before it dries.  Use your finger to get a smooth finish.

Removing old Grouting

Even if the grouting has already started to peel away, you need to ensure that it is removed properly and safely to avoid causing damage to the tiles beneath. Many people use tools they already have lying around the house to try and do this fiddly job, but you will save yourself a lot of time if you buy a special grout rake from a DIY store. Remove the grouting to a depth of about two millimetres to ensure that you have got rid of all the affected sealant before applying the new product.

Grouting Tiles

The easiest way to apply grouting safely and with the least amount of mess is to spend a little money and buy a grouting gun. Once this appliance has been filled with the sealant you can use it to pipe the grouting directly into position, rather than applying it with a trowel and having to clean the excess off the tiles. Buying ready-mixed grouting is much easier than mixing your own and is more than adequate for repairs and replacement. Experts will mix their own when grouting a whole room as it does give a better finish than the pre-mixed variety.

Avoid buying new tiles by revamping the old ones- you can completely change the look of wall tiles with special tile paints. Spend time doing it properly; take care over the grouting and follow the instructions on the products, and your old tiles will have a new lease of life.

Borrow professional tools- somebody you know is bound to have tile cutting tools, leftover spacers and a spirit level. Just ask around.

Buy from trade outlets- significant savings can be made by asking a friend with a trade account to buy tiles for you, or to let you use their account at a trade outlet. Go to the beautiful, expensive showrooms for inspiration only.

Don’t scrimp on quality- this can be a false economy. If you buy the very cheapest tiles, you may need more of them when they crack and break during installation. Also avoid cutting corners in wet areas such as showers – do the job properly or you will have serious damp problems.

Removal of the Old Tile

Scrape out the grout from around the tile(s) you want to remove. Then, to prevent the drill from slipping, stick some tape on the middle of the broken tile and drill three or four small holes into it. This should help prevent damage to the surrounding tiles.

With a small chisel, chip the broken tile away – beginning from the holes in the centre. Be careful when nearing the edges, to avoid damaging the tiles surrounding the damaged one.

Remove the underlying tile adhesive from the wall using a chisel, doing so carefully to prevent damage of the wall below. Brush or vacuum away any remaining dust or dirt from the wall.

Using a Tile Scriber

Lay the tile, glazed side up, on a solid flat surface, such as a table or wooden board and mark off the dimensions required.  Take a steel rule or similar straightedge and align it with the marks on the tile.  Using the tile scriber, score a deep line across the face of the tile, keeping as close to the straightedge as possible.

Place the tile, face up, on a flat, thin straight piece of wood or similar material, with the score mark running along its edge.  Press firmly down on either side of the groove and the tile will snap along the length of the scored line.

Using a Tile Cutter

This is a more efficient option, especially if you are cutting a number of tiles.

Lay the tile on the cutter board and align the cutter with the score marks previously made by using a scriber.  Position the cutter blade on the edge of the tile and draw it towards you.  This creates a groove in the tile.  Finally, bring the handle down to split the tile.

Using a tile cutter takes a little getting used to, so it is advisable practice on old or broken tiles, before moving on to new ones.

A bed of mortar needs to be laid first, as base for the tiles. Adhesive as used on regular ceramic tiles will not be sufficient to secure them in place.  Quarry tiles are also tougher to cut, and score lines used in conjunction with a hammer is the usual method of getting them to split evenly and neatly.  Apart from these considerations, the general modus operandi is the same as for glazed tiles.

Mark off the area to be tiled with wooden battens and fill it with a shallow layer of pre-mixed mortar, which can be bought in any DIY outlet.  Use a trowel to make the bed completely level, and use a spirit level for this rather than relying on the eye.  Use a block of wood to gently tap the quarry tiles into place as you lay them down.

Work slowly and methodically, concentrating on no more than 1 sq metre at a time and keep the tiles slightly separated rather than pressed against each other.  A piece of card can be used for this.

When the floor is covered, use cut strips of tile to fill in the edges and remove all the battens, then allow the mortar to set for about 24 hours. 

Bathroom tiles are quite easy to fit; they are inexpensive and give a clean look and feel.  Tiling is also ideal for bathrooms, because it is practical, waterproof and when properly installed does not mildew or mould.  Wood expands in humid environments and can warp and become mildewed within quite a short period of time, so is probably best avoided wherever possible.  Other wall-finishes, such as wallpaper can easily become loose and begin to peel off when exposed to too much steam and can also take on a mouldy odour.  Bath and shower surrounds are a practical choice.  They are simple to install and a breeze to maintain. 

When choosing a basin for your bathroom, be sure to consider space-saving options, such as wall-mount or pedestal versions, especially if your bathroom is small.  Some bathrooms are so tiny that a small cabinet under the bath is required to hold important items. 

If your toilet still looks and operates satisfactorily it may not be necessary to replace it during a bathroom renovation.  If it is leaky, it should be relatively easy and inexpensive to replace the defective components.  You can change the look of your toilet with new handle and seat; the only other consideration is the colour and style.

Whilst much of the area to be tiled will use whole tiles, the edges at floor or ceiling, or those around existing features, windows, and doors will have to be cut so that they can fit correctly.  When marking those tiles ready for cutting, remember that a grout line will also need to be included in any measurements.

It is easier to cut tiles in straight cuts, so to make any job simpler try and avoid making design plans where difficult ceramic shapes will be needed.  Using a tile cutter, carefully score along the measurement that has been drawn onto the tile lightly with a pencil.  Once the score has been made, use a wooden batten to add pressure to the tile before snapping quickly and breaking the tile in half.  This can be difficult to do as strips of tiles get smaller which is one reason to try and avoid very narrow tile lines.

If there is a lot of cutting to do, you could consider hiring a tile cutter and saw to do the job for you.  This is a very accurate and easy way of cutting tiles.  Whichever way you choose to cut your tiles, ensure you remember to allow for grout lines, have excess tiles for accidents, and take safety precautions that allow projects to be completed without injury.

The Correct Grout

There are different types of grout and to select the correct one, look at the packaging and match it with the project you are working on.  The three main types of grout are epoxy resin, furan resin and Portland cement based, each of which has different properties and strengths.  Grout should not be added until the adhesive for the tiles is completely dried, so it is important to know how long the particular adhesive you have used should be left for. 

Applying Grout

Grout is applied using a squeegee and should first be spread across a small area, making sure that joints between the tiles receive a good coating.  The grout should be worked in all directions to be sure that all the joints are completely filled.  If the surface of grout is not smooth across the joints, a dowel can be dragged along the joints to produce an even result. 

Removing Excess Grout

Any excess grout on the tile should be wiped off while it is still wet.  Once dry, the tile can be scrubbed with a rag, which should remove any thin layer of grout that remains.  This needs to be done after the grout in the joints is dry, so that its surface is not disturbed. 

Laying the first tile is crucial, as its size, position, and correct horizontal and vertical position in large part determines the remainder of the tiling. Using a spirit level continuously throughout the work is highly recommended, as any mistakes can be corrected while the adhesive is still malleable.

Wall tiling can be done in stages, as once a set of tiles is laid it does not matter greatly if there is a short or long gap in time before the next set is laid. It may be useful to consider using larger tiles. If the look is right for the space, larger tiles can be faster to lay, when compared with laying a larger quantity of smaller tiles.

Tiling in certain areas, such as corners, or around wall plugs or appliances, may require the tiles to be cut. Special stone-cutting tools can be purchased for this purpose from DIY outlets or online. Draw the area to be cut from the tiles carefully using a pencil, and cut on a flat surface for safety.